HORSE
MANE BRAIDING AND CARE
A horse with a ratty mane looks neglected. Also, an
unkempt mane can trap dirt, sweat and moisture, leading to skin conditions
that are itchy and uncomfortable; this could cause your horse to start rubbing
his neck against everything within reach to scratch. Tangles start looking
like "dreadlocks" and will catch on anything. Creating a healthy, gorgeous
mane that catches the judge's eye isn't complicated, but it does require
strict care and nurturing.
Shampoo and Conditioning
Washing clears away bits of leaves, and oil buildup
that can cause fungi and inhibit growth. It also flushes bacteria from the
skin's surface, reducing the chances of skin infections. While individual
horses' needs vary, in warm weather you may find your horse does better on a
weekly schedule, with daily rinsing without shampoo after workouts. Or you
could be one of the lucky ones, whose horse only needs a deep cleansing every
few weeks to avoid summer itch. Horses living outdoors will generally just
need shampooing before shows. However, you'll need to monitor the skin's
condition to make sure you don't get a scum build-up or, conversely, overdo it
and cause dry skin to react by producing excess oil. In general, though,
horses working and sweating in the summer heat need their manes washed more
often than during spring, fall and winter.
Winter cold can pose its own challenges if frost
prevents you from bathing your horse, but there are still dry shampoos and
spray-on alternatives you can use to keep the mane healthy. A constantly
greasy feeling at the base of the mane, sores, dandruff, can indicate your
horse needs a medicated shampoo. We have found that Listerine, a dilute
solution of iodine or natural tea tree oil work on rain-rot and other common
fungi. You'll need to clear up any problems before you can count on a healthy
growing mane.
I shampoo Mistico with Kentucky Gold shampoo and
spritz it with Show Sheen, let dry and run my fingers through the mane to
detangle. I do not rinse off the Show Sheen conditioner. I have found that
by not using thick conditioners on my horse's mane, there is no buildup of
dirt. It remains shiny and silky.
Conditioning products vary: Some are meant to be
applied when the hair is wet then rinsed out, others are left in, while others
can be applied when the mane is dry. Some focus on strengthening the mane hair
with additives, some claim to keep it healthy, others to soften, add luster or
merely ease tangles and snarls. For example, Cowboy Magic, a gel-like lotion
that contains silk proteins, is designed to help detangle and repel dust and
static; others, like Show Sheen contain ingredients like silicone that offer
multiple protection: repelling dirt and keeping the hair tangle-free. Cowboy
Magic seems to be the favorite right now.
What if the weather's cold and you don't want to risk
a wet horse? Dry shampoos are a great alternative during cold weather and
allow you to comb easily through the mane during each grooming session.
Between shampoos, you can also spray Listerine or tea tree oil at the base of
the mane to kill bacteria that cause itching.
Brushing
Using the right brush and technique can minimize hair
breakage. Mane combs are designed to help you gently detangle snarls and
smooth hair with large teeth and wide spaces. Mane brushes should have
wide-spaced, flexible bristles with rounded tips so they won't scratch your
horse's skin. You can use human hairbrushes of this description, but keep in
mind they may not be as sturdy and their bristles may not be as deep.
When brushing, first work through the hair with your
fingers to find the major knots, then gently detangle these with your fingers,
then with a wide-toothed comb, start from the tips of the mane up to the base.
Once the major snarls have been cleared, gently take the brush through the
mane to find any smaller snags, then brush down from the skin at the base of
the mane to the tips in long, gentle sweeps. Make sure the brush goes through
all the layers and that you begin at your horse's "scalp" at the base of the
mane.
Spraying a leave-in conditioner (like I said, I use
Show Sheen) on the mane each time you comb it will help keep it smooth and
free of tangles and therefore less likely to be damaged.
Horses kept outside need extra mane attention since
you have less control of their environment. Braiding long manes in a running
braid may keep the hair together and somewhat protected from the drying sun
and elements, however, the braids may catch on rough fence posts, bucket hooks
trees etc. If you decide to braid, check your horse daily and re-braid at
least weekly or you'll find that the braids have turned into into giant rat's
nests.
Control
The easiest way to avoid static may be to put a mane
tamer on your horse after a shampoo. Tamers stretch and fit snugly around your
horse's neck and keep the mane lying as it dries, "training" it to stay down.
These can also protect your horse's mane from catching on snags and from the
sun's bleaching, drying effects.
Another easy fix for a wild mane is putting on
diluted hair gel. After you comb the mane down, saturate the mane and comb it
down. This type of product also aids braiding and banding because it gives the
mane a bit of texture, keeping those stray hairs in check. You can also train
a mane to lie flat by braiding it in largish braids (about 1" to minimize the
stress to hair) while it's still damp and leaving it overnight.
And finally, for that Appy mane which is thin and
scraggly: With good sharp clippers- never scissors or you'll still look
scruffy), roach the mane 1/2" to 1" from the crest, depending on the condition
of the mane and the thickness of your horse's neck. (A thin neck needs a
little longer roach.) Wash afterwards and thoroughly scrub in shampoo with a
brush. Rinse, then spray with a sheen product to discourage scurf.
Materials needed:
- Small natural sponge
- Water bucket
- Small mane comb (plastic or metal)
- 30+ lengths of yarn cut to 18"
- Pull through a crochet hook or rug hooking tool
work well
- Pair of scissors
Here's how to pull, band and braid:
Most horses will not mind if you pull only a few
hairs at once. To pull a mane, grab a small section of hair at the tips, then
comb backward toward the base of the mane. Long hairs will remain in your
hand, but most will be pushed up, out of the way. Using a pulling comb, the
longest hairs are broken or cut, or you can use a regular comb by wrapping a
few of the longest hairs around the comb and tug them out with a quick
downward motion, pulling them out by the roots. If they don't come out easily,
use smaller sections. Continue down the neck, stepping back occasionally to
check your work. While this process doesn't appear to hurt most ponies and
horses, some hate having their manes pulled. These horses may benefit from
having their manes thinned with a razor comb. If you're using a razor comb,
simply back-comb a section and cut the long hairs 2 to 3 inches from the
mane's base.
Banding a mane: Western horses have banded manes so
their necks look thinner and the mane lies quietly. In addition to the small
rubber bands the color of the mane, such as, hairdressers clips or clothespins
(to hold the mane back); gel; and sectioning comb, you may wish to have
banding tape or plastic for a polished look. To band a mane, separate a small
section of hair and put a rubber band around it about inch down from the base
(if it's too close to the crest, it'll stick up). Repeat with the rest of the
mane. Keep sections even and adjust the rubber bands to line up evenly across
the neck. The completed mane should look like a row of tiny ponytails. For
some disciplines, you may wish to cover the rubber bands with banding tape or
plastic tubes of the same color as your horse's mane or white to emphasize
your horse's neckline.
Braiding: You'll need a braiding kit if you plan to
braid your horse often. You can assemble your own from items purchased at the
drug store, or buy a pre-assembled kit. You'll need: several 12-inch strands
of yarn matching your horse's mane; small rubber bands; a braid pull-through
(purchased at tack stores or you can make one out of some twisted wire, or you
can use a crochet or rug latch hook); hairdressers clips or clothespins; small
blunt-tip sewing scissors (to clip the yarn); gel or braiding product; and
braid aid (a sectioning comb available at tack stores).
Hunter Braids: You can braid a mane that is wet, dry
or gelled — it's your personal preference. I favor braiding a damp, slightly
gelled mane because it makes the mane neat and holds stray hairs in place.
- To start, stand on your stool and begin at the
poll. For easy access, fold the yarn in half and slip the entire bunch
through the top ring of your horse's halter.
- Take your braid-aid and comb off a section of
hair.
- Put your hair clip in the free hair next to your
section of hair.
- Start braiding the section down, keeping it tight
as you go. About halfway down, place a folded piece of yarn in the center of
the braid, and continue braiding, incorporating the yarn into it.
- At the end, wrap the two pieces of yarn ends
around the braid's tail and knot them.
- Continue down the mane until all the braids are
finished. You will have a row of braids with about 4 inches of yarn hanging
down.
- To finish them, slide the hook down the top of
each braid, through the mane, and slip the loose yarn through the eye of the
pull-through.
- Pull it up and out the top of the braid. The braid
tail and excess yarn will now be through the mane and lying at the top of
the crest.
- Crisscross the yarn under the braid, bring it back
around to the middle of the braid and make a square knot.
- Clip the loose ends of the yarn. Remember to keep
this all very tight or the braids will slip loose.
Running braid: This resembles a long French braid and
requires a long mane. Start at the crest, braiding along and picking up a
small section of hair close to the neck. Continue down the neck, incorporating
small sections as you go. At the end, braid down the loose end and put in a
rubber band. This braid slips out easily so should be done right before your
class.
Continental braid: (Seen mostly on Arabians, this
beautiful braid requires a very long mane.) Band the mane. Split each ponytail
into two sections and band each section to the adjacent split sections 3
inches down. Continue across the neck, then repeat the sectioning and banding
3 inches down. Continue this process at least halfway down the mane's length.
It should look like a net, with the ends dangling loose. To highlight, wrap
contrasting color tape around the bands.
Another variation, diamond braiding requires the mane
to be braided in individual braids as hunter braiding, and the using the
continental style to create the web or diamond pattern.
- Beginning at the poll, separate the mane into a
row of small ponytails, or plaits, secured by rubber bands approximately 2-3
inches from the crest of the neck.
- Next, take all the hair from the first plait,
closest to the poll, and half the hair from plait number 2 and secure the
hair with a second rubber band about 2 inches below the first row.
- Then take the remaining hair from plait 2 and half
the hair from plait 3 and repeat the process all the way down toward the
withers, creating a second, alternating row.
- A third row can be added by repeating the process.
- You can finish the mane with braiding tape at each
joint, although the use of contrasting colored rubber bands is easier on the
mane and just as acceptable.
